Best Skincare Ingredients for Acne

Best Skincare Ingredients for Acne

Have you been spending hours searching for the perfect skincare routine for your acne-prone skin? Reading reviews, trying different products, but the breakouts keep coming back? Maybe the issue is that you're using the wrong active ingredients or combining them in a way that doesn’t work.

In this video, I’ll explain which ingredients should be part of your acne routine. We’ll go over how each one works, who it’s best for, and how and when to use it.

Core Skincare Principles for Acne-Prone Skin

When dealing with acne, balance is everything. Your routine needs to reduce inflammation, control oil production, prevent clogged pores, support the skin’s natural barrier, and avoid drying your skin out. The biggest mistake people make is trying to use everything at once. The skin gets overwhelmed, which can lead to irritation, dehydration, and increased sensitivity.
It’s important to layer your routine properly—start with the basics, then introduce targeted actives, and finish with repair and hydration. To make things easier, we’ll break down the ingredients into three categories so you can better understand how to build your routine step by step.

Group 1. Potent Actives That Require Caution. This first group includes powerful ingredients that should be introduced with care.

Benzoyl Peroxide is one of the most effective ingredients for fighting inflammation. It penetrates deep into the pores, kills P. acnes bacteria, and helps reduce oil production. However, it can also cause irritation, dryness, and flaking. If you're new to benzoyl peroxide, start with a 2.5% concentration. Apply it as a spot treatment directly on breakouts. Use it every other day at first. After about a month, you can gradually increase to daily use. To avoid over-drying your skin, don’t combine it with retinol or acids on the same day. Alternate your actives—use benzoyl peroxide one night, then retinol or acids the next.

Retinol is one of the most powerful ingredients for treating both acne and post-acne marks. It regulates sebum production, prevents clogged pores, reduces comedones, stimulates collagen, and helps fade hyperpigmentation.

If you’re new to it, start with a low concentration—0.25% to 0.3%. For the first few weeks, apply it every third night. Then gradually move to every other night if you’re also using acids or benzoyl peroxide, or nightly if you’re not. Only use it at night.

Always apply SPF in the morning, since retinol makes your skin more sensitive to the sun. Don’t use it on the same night as acids, benzoyl peroxide, or sulfur.

Salicylic acid is another tried-and-true ingredient in acne skincare. It has keratolytic properties, which means it gently exfoliates the skin’s surface, clears away dead skin cells, dissolves excess oil inside the pores, and helps reduce inflammation.

So, how do you choose the right concentration? For at-home skincare, products typically range from 0.5% to 2%. A concentration of 0.5–1% is great for sensitive skin or for everyday use. 2% is ideal for oily or acne-prone skin with blackheads and active breakouts.

You’ll find salicylic acid in a few different forms:

Toners are great for regular exfoliation and prepping your skin for the next steps in your routine. Use them in the evening, 2–3 times a week if you have sensitive skin, and up to 4–5 times a week for oilier skin that tolerates acids well.

Serums offer more targeted action. You can apply them directly to areas with breakouts, 2–3 times a week, preferably at night.

Masks and chemical peels with salicylic acid are typically used once a week as a more intensive treatment.

Cleansers with salicylic acid are a good preventative step in daily face washing routines. However, because the product doesn’t stay on the skin long, the results tend to be more subtle.

Now you might be wondering: how do I introduce salicylic acid into my routine the right way?

Start with twice a week in your evening routine. After two weeks, if your skin isn’t dry or irritated, you can increase it to 3–4 times per week. Avoid using it on the same night as retinol or acidic forms of vitamin C, to prevent over-exfoliating or irritating the skin.

Salicylic acid pairs really well with niacinamide, zinc, and azelaic acid.

Speaking of which — let’s talk about azelaic acid. It’s one of the most unique and versatile ingredients, offering multiple benefits at once. It’s anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, comedolytic (meaning it breaks down clogged pores), and also helps brighten post-acne pigmentation.

Azelaic acid reduces the growth of P. acnes bacteria, calms inflammation, and decreases the number of breakouts. It also helps regulate the skin’s keratinization process, clears the pores, and prevents new comedones from forming. Additionally, it fades hyperpigmentation and evens out skin tone.

You should definitely include azelaic acid in your routine if your skin is sensitive, if you deal with breakouts and clogged pores, or if you have dark spots left behind from acne.

In over-the-counter products, you’ll usually find it in concentrations of 10% to 15%. Prescription-strength formulas like Skinoren or Finacea contain 20% and require a dermatologist’s recommendation.

The most convenient form is serum or cream. Azelaic acid is often part of combo formulas, like ones with niacinamide.

It’s one of the few actives you can safely use both morning and night. It doesn’t make your skin more sun-sensitive, but you should still wear sunscreen in the morning.

When you start using it, apply it once a day every other day, ideally in the evening. After 7–10 days, you can switch to daily use, and eventually twice a day — morning and night.

Here’s a tip: after cleansing and using toner, wait 10–15 minutes until your skin is completely dry before applying azelaic acid. This reduces the chances of irritation.

It works beautifully when paired with niacinamide, zinc, probiotics, and hydrating ingredients. But avoid using it at the same time as retinol, benzoyl peroxide, or strong acids. You can use them in the same day, just not in the same routine.

In the beginning, you might feel a slight tingling or stinging sensation — that’s normal and usually fades after a few minutes. If irritation persists, reduce how often you use it and add more hydrating products to your routine.

Ready to move on to the second group of actives? These are gentler ingredients that you can use more frequently and build into your everyday skincare routine.

First up is niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3. It’s one of the most versatile and well-tolerated ingredients out there. It helps calm inflammation, regulates oil production, minimizes the appearance of pores, evens out skin tone, and strengthens the skin’s barrier. It’s also great for post-acne marks — it brightens dark spots and smooths out skin texture.

You can use niacinamide both in the morning and at night, and it’s safe for daily use. It’s especially helpful when your skin is inflamed or dehydrated after using stronger actives.

Even if you’re new to active ingredients, niacinamide is a great place to start. Begin with a 4–5% concentration, then move up to 10% if your skin tolerates it well. It’s usually available in serum form and should be applied to clean, dry skin after toner.

It pairs very well with ingredients like zinc, azelaic acid, salicylic acid, panthenol, probiotics, and bakuchiol. However, it’s not recommended to use niacinamide at the same time with high concentrations of acidic vitamin C — they can reduce each other’s effectiveness.

Niacinamide is especially helpful for oily and combination skin, acne-prone skin, skin dealing with inflammation or post-acne marks, and for preventing irritation from other actives like acids or retinol.

Now let’s talk about clindamycin. It’s a topical antibiotic that effectively targets Cutibacterium acnes, the bacteria responsible for inflammatory acne. It’s especially useful for papulopustular acne, where there are a lot of red or white pimples on the skin.

Clindamycin is usually available in gel or lotion form, and it’s often found in combination products with benzoyl peroxide — like Benzaclin, Duac, or Onexton.

Here’s something important: clindamycin should only be prescribed by a dermatologist. It’s typically applied directly to affected areas once or twice a day on clean, dry skin. Treatment usually lasts for 6–8 weeks under medical supervision.

It’s often combined with benzoyl peroxide to increase efficacy and prevent bacteria from becoming resistant to antibiotics. While benzoyl peroxide targets P. acnes, clindamycin works on Cutibacterium acnes. Avoid using clindamycin with other topical antibiotics or strong actives unless your doctor says it’s okay.

Clindamycin doesn’t cause your skin to “get used to it,” but long-term use can lead to antibiotic resistance, so always follow your doctor’s instructions and only use it when necessary.

It’s best for people dealing with moderate to severe acne, especially if pustules are present and inflammation is high.

Now let’s talk about zinc. Zinc is known for its oil-regulating, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties. It helps control sebum production, reduces redness, speeds up healing, and strengthens the skin barrier.

You’ll often find zinc in serums, toners, and creams, usually paired with niacinamide, salicylic acid, azelaic acid, or green tea extract. It’s safe to use every day, morning or night. I highly recommend it for oily or combination skin and during periods of hormonal breakouts.

Sulfur is another ingredient that’s been around forever — and for good reason. It’s especially helpful for inflammatory acne. It has antibacterial, antifungal, and oil-controlling properties. It dries out active breakouts, helps unclog pores, and reduces overall oiliness.

Sulfur is best used at night, in the form of masks, spot treatments, or pastes. It has a distinct smell, but it’s super effective. You can use it 2–3 times a week, or as a spot treatment when needed. Avoid combining it with retinol or acids to prevent excessive dryness.

Now let’s talk about bakuchiol. It’s a plant-based alternative to retinol. It gently exfoliates, boosts cell turnover, helps with clogged pores and post-acne marks, improves skin tone, and acts as an antioxidant. Unlike retinol, it doesn’t cause irritation and is safe even for sensitive skin. It’s also safe to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

You can use bakuchiol daily, morning or night. It’s gentle and usually found in serums, creams, and overnight masks. It works well with niacinamide, panthenol, centella asiatica, and azelaic acid. You can even combine it with acids in the same routine, unlike retinol.

Now let’s move on to the third group of ingredients — the ones that help restore and maintain your skin’s barrier. These are absolutely essential in any acne routine, especially if you’re using strong actives like retinol, acids, or benzoyl peroxide. They soothe irritation, calm inflammation, and prevent long-term sensitivity.

Let’s start with Centella Asiatica, also known as Cica or Gotu Kola. This is a powerful anti-inflammatory and healing botanical extract. It soothes irritated skin, reduces redness, strengthens capillaries, and speeds up skin regeneration. It’s especially beneficial if your skin is sensitive, recovering from active treatments, or prone to post-acne marks.

Use Centella daily, morning and night, in a hydrating serum or moisturizer. It helps calm the skin after acids, retinoids, or benzoyl peroxide, and supports recovery from inflammation.

Next up: Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5. This is a go-to ingredient for deep hydration and skin repair. It moisturizes, softens the skin, speeds up healing of micro-damage, and soothes irritation. It also helps maintain a healthy moisture balance and reinforce the skin’s barrier.

Panthenol is great if your skin is feeling dry, flaky, or irritated from active ingredients. You can use it morning and night in creams, gels, or masks. Apply it after actives or on recovery days when your skin needs a break.

Now let’s talk about Allantoin — another amazing barrier-repair ingredient. It has soothing, softening, and mild exfoliating properties. It helps calm irritated skin, improves texture, reduces redness, and relieves itchiness. It’s great for sensitive or stressed-out skin, especially during acne treatment.

You’ll often find allantoin in creams and balms, especially night creams and overnight masks. Use it daily, morning or night, as the final step in your routine — especially on days when you’re not using strong actives.

Next on the list: Green tea extract. It’s a natural antioxidant with strong anti-inflammatory, oil-controlling, and antibacterial properties. It helps reduce oiliness, soothe redness, and support skin healing. It pairs especially well with zinc, niacinamide, salicylic acid, and probiotics.

Green tea is ideal for oily, combination, or acne-prone skin and works well for daily use — morning and night — in toners, serums, or creams. For dry or sensitive skin types, I’d use it with caution, as prolonged use may lead to irritation.

And finally, probiotics. These help restore and maintain a healthy skin microbiome, reduce inflammation, strengthen the barrier, and increase your skin’s resilience to environmental stressors. They’re especially helpful for sensitive, reactive, or damaged skin — and for anyone recovering from antibiotics, acids, or retinoids.

Probiotics are usually found in serums or moisturizers and can be used daily. They’re great to apply after your active ingredients, as part of the healing and rebuilding phase of your routine.

Let’s go over the skincare steps, and I’ll share some ready-to-use routine examples for different acne-prone skin types.

Morning routine.
You wake up, stretch, and it’s time to care for your skin. Start with a gentle cleanser — a gel or a foaming wash. Step two is toner to prep the skin and restore its natural pH. After that, apply your serum with active ingredients — for example, niacinamide or azelaic acid. Step four is hydration: use a soothing and barrier-repairing moisturizer. And if you’re heading outdoors — don’t forget sunscreen. SPF 30 or higher is non-negotiable.

Evening routine.
You’re home, the day is over. Time to treat your skin. As always, start with cleansing and toning. Let your skin dry, then apply your active serums or creams — this might be a retinol or a benzoyl peroxide cream. If your skin is sensitive or reactive, you can follow it up with a soothing moisturizer to buffer the actives and minimize irritation — that’s absolutely fine and sometimes necessary.

Now, here are a few sample routines for different skin types with acne.

Oily skin with inflammation and clogged pores

Morning: salicylic acid cleanser, zinc toner, niacinamide serum, lightweight moisturizer with Centella, SPF.

Evening: cleanse, salicylic acid toner, retinol cream, barrier-repair cream with probiotics or panthenol.

Combination skin with acne, post-acne marks, and sensitivity

Morning: gentle foaming cleanser, probiotic toner, azelaic acid serum, moisturizer with Centella, SPF.

Evening: gentle gel cleanser, probiotic toner, retinol (every other night), moisturizer with panthenol and allantoin.

Dry skin with active breakouts

Morning: creamy cleanser, thermal water or soothing mist, niacinamide serum, moisturizer with probiotics and panthenol, SPF.

Evening: gentle cleanser, bakuchiol or azelaic acid serum, moisturizer with Centella and green tea.

The key is to personalize your routine, listen to your skin, and adjust when necessary. Acne can be managed — if you’re consistent, gentle, and strategic. And if you’re not sure where to start, don’t hesitate to reach out to a skincare professional.

Let’s quickly recap: a good acne routine includes actives to reduce inflammation and sebum production, plus ingredients that hydrate, heal, and support your skin barrier. Don’t try to use everything at once. Pick 2 or 3 key ingredients, add them gradually, and give your skin time to respond.

Remember — skincare is a marathon, not a sprint.

Subscribe to the channel and check out other videos with in-depth advice on acne skincare. See you soon!